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GROOMING AND HEALTH SUPPLIES FOR CATS, DOGS, AND SMALL PETS

SAVE MONEY BY GROOMING YOUR PET AT HOME

We have a large selection of grooming supplies so that you can keep your pet looking and feeling good including combs, brushes, and clippers!  We have just what you need to keep their coat shiny, healthy, and matte free and we have a large selection of products to keep your cat's and dog's ears clean, dry, and mite and odor free and dental products to keep their teeth and gums healthy!  We also carry products to take care of the tear staining on their cute little faces that often occur in many breeds.  It's easy to groom your pets at home and you save money!

 

DIFFERENT COMBS AND BRUSHES FOR DIFFERENT BREEDS

Coats come in a wide range of types and textures. Soft, silky, fine, dense, coarse, straight or curly hair varies immensely, even between pets of the same breed. The prepared groomer will have several varieties of combs and brushes on hand to deal with so many kinds of coats— and will know how to use them properly.

For short-haired breeds such as Beagles or Dalmatians, use a rubber brush or a bristle brush. Soft rubber bristles will pull out loose hair. A bristle brush should be fairly stiff and works best when used with the lie of the coat. Bristles move the oils from the skin to the hair shaft as you brush, leaving a shiny, smooth coat. A medium/fine comb will work like a comb used on your own hair, catching and pulling out the loose hair and dirt.

For long-haired dogs that need to be scissored, such as the Bichon Frise or Kerry Blue Terrier, a slicker brush should be used to untangle and remove loose hair. Use a pin brush only if there are no mats. Depending on the hair type, choose a medium/coarse or coarse comb. If the pet is seriously matted, a mat comb or electric detangler may be needed. A curved slicker with stiff pins will untangle more effectively and will pull out more undercoat, but will also require more care in order to not brush-burn the pet.

For breeds with long silky coats, a slicker brush (or, if there are no mats, a pin brush) should be used— along with a medium/coarse or a coarse comb to check for any matting in the coat. For a serious matting problem, try a mat comb or a long pin rake.

For double-coated breeds, a number of different brushes can be used: a wire slicker to pull out the loose hair, a pin brush to untangle and smooth, or an undercoat rake or a mat comb to help thin out the undercoat. A moulting comb can also be used to remove loose hair and tidy the outer coat. Depending on the hair type, a medium/fine or a medium/coarse comb should also be used.

For sporting breeds such as Setters and Spaniels, a pin brush can be used to untangle slightly matted coats, and a wire slicker will remove loose, dead hair. A medium/coarse or coarse comb can be used to untangle and neaten the coat. If the coat is seriously matted or tangled, you may need to use a mat comb or a long pin rake. Results often depend not so much on what you use as on the way that you use it. Layering, line brushing, and sectioning are the secrets to humane detangling. Grabbing too much hair and pulling too hard causes pain and discomfort to both the animal and the operator.

Repetitive motion injuries are caused by the same action again and again. Vary the motion only slightly, and damage can be prevented. Part of the job can be accomplished by using a tool that has teeth or bristles set parallel to the handle. The wrist and forearm are now operating in a horizontal position. After a while, switch to an implement designed so that the business end is at right angles to the shaft. The angle has changed, and the arm and wrist are working in a more vertical mode. When using either a regular tool or one of a rake design, always keep the wrist in a neutral position. Select handles that fit your palm. Another option is to try ergonomically designed brushes and combs. They have slightly larger than normal handles, providing a more comfortable grip. Position the body in a way so that the tool can be operated without straining the wrist, elbow or shoulder muscles.

The standby of handlers, pin and bristle brushes, are effective on delicate coats. The fine, flowing (show) hair of Afghan Hounds, Maltese Terriers and similarly coated breeds is preserved by using rubber cushioned pin brushes and natural or synthetic bristle brushes.

"Pat and pull" is a technique for using a slicker brush. No pressure is applied on the down stroke. As the brush stroke comes up from the coat, the fine pins hook up a layer of hair and coax tangles out. Slicker brushes are available in different degrees of hardness and various pin sizes and angles. You will need a selection, and remember that they get a lot of wear. Check them regularly and replace brushes with missing and bent pins. Also replace slickers whenever the pins lose their original amount of resistance. If pins are "tired," you will use more strokes to achieve the same effect, costing unnecessary time and physical fatigue.

Superior machining and better metal alloys make combs that glide through hair and lift it for the master stylist to scissor impeccably. Fine, close teeth are needed to seek out fleas and tiny snags. Thickly matted hair can be separated with sturdy, wide-pinned combs.

When necessary, the groomer has to resort to combs with teeth-bladed edges, which will cut as they are pulled through. Some manufacturers suggest using a sawing, rocking motion. Bladed mat combs and splitters are often seen as the only alternative to shaving.

PET NAIL TRIMMING AT HOME

how to trim your pet's nails

The following is an excerpt from the American Kennel Club Dog Care and Training Book. Dog Care & Training has over 200 pages of expert advice, full-color photos and illustrations, answers to the most commonly asked questions and a complete glossary of terms.

Nail trimmers come in a variety of types. The most common nail trimmer is the guillotine trimmer. The top of the dog's nail is inserted into the opening of this metal tool above the cutting blade. When the handle is squeezed together, the cutting mechanism is activated. Other nail trimmer types are the scissors type and the safety nail trimmer, which is equipped with a safety stop near the cutting blade to limit the amount of nail trimmed. Then there are nail files and electric nail trimmers.

Nails seem to grow at different rates in different dogs. In any case, one rule holds true: the nails must be kept short for the feet to remain healthy. Long nails interfere with the dog's gait, making walking awkward or painful. They can also break easily. This usually happens at the base of the nail, where blood vessels and nerves are located, and precipitates a trip to the veterinarian.

Another problem affects dogs whose overgrown nails curl toward the foot, eventually piercing the sensitive pads and causing deep pad infections. Dewclaws most frequently become overgrown, presumably because owners commonly overlook them. Many breeders routinely have dewclaws removed when puppies are a few days old. Check your puppy when you get it. If its dewclaws are intact, you must be sure to keep the nails short at all times. These problems can be easily prevented with regular nail care.

To begin with, regularly stroke the puppy's feet, gently touching each toe in turn. Allow it to become accustomed to having this delicate part of the body handled, so it won't be apt to panic when you get down to business later.

Unfortunately, some dogs never adjust to having their nails trimmed. They need only see the clippers and they're squalling, long before you're anywhere near a nail. In that case, trimming nails becomes a two-person job: one person to hold the dog, the other to do the work. It can still be a test of wills. That's why you should accustom your young puppy to nail care. It increases the likelihood of maintaining peace when the animal is fully grown.

Unpigmented nails are simple to trim. If your dog has at least one unpigmented nail, examine it closely. You should see a small pink triangle extending from the base of the nail narrowing toward the tip. This triangle houses the blood supply and nerves, which you want to avoid when trimming the nail. Position the nail trimmer so that it clearly bypasses the pink area, and proceed to clip. That's all there is to nail trimming.

Of course, trimming nails is infinitely more challenging in dogs with black or pigmented nails. Because you can't see the pink part, you must estimate how much nail to clip. To be on the safe side, trim only the part of each nail that hooks downward. The trimmed nail should just clear the floor.

If you're absolutely unnerved of the thought of nail trimming, find a veterinarian or groomer to do it for you. This service usually costs very little and goes a long way in keeping your dog comfortable.

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Pet grooming at home.

Grooming your dog or cat yourself is not only easy, but saves you  money because you don't have to make frequent and expensive trips to the groomer.  We have all of the grooming tools and supplies you need to keep your dog's coat healthy, shiny, and free of matts and to keep their eyes and ears healthy!  We also have grooming tools to keep your cat's coat shiny, healthy and to cut down on shedding. Our nail clippers are high quality and are easy and safe to use on  your cat or dog's nails.

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